Kelley Brown / Easkey Britton

A new phenomenon in womens surfing media is Cold Water and Big Wave surfing. These two niches are important, as they per definition must defy the stereotypes of women in surfing; with brave athletes in full suits surfing rough waters across the globe.


Kelley Brown, Canada

vagabondgear.ca

Born in American South Carolina, now living in Canada, Kelley Brown is a self-taught photographer who finds every medium available to share her passion for surfing, traveling, and general love/infatuation for the water.  Kelley is also a t-shirt designer and e-commerce business owner, printing her photography on a variety of apparel sold online.
Kelley loves photographing and capturing that essential moment when a surfer and nature collide.  Being a devoted surfer she knows that essential moment, is so fleeting- but once captured, so priceless. That's why she tries to take that into her work. 
"I am stoked to have met Easkey Britton on the Westcoast of Vancouver Island.  I love the female surf culture here as there is a lot of devoted waterwomen around.  Found myself with the opportunity of photographing Easkey, an honor simply because I find so much motivation from Pro Cold water and Big Wave female surfers.  Easkey was amazing in and out of the water a true athlete that relishes in her talents yet spreads her success to others such as myself."
 
When and why did you get in to photography?
“Surfing and traveling has introduced me into the most amazing people, athletes.  The photography allows me to get even closer with people and capturing the right moment and make it timeless for others is what truly makes me happy.  My reason for getting into photography is to surf more, travel more and remember it all in detailed captured moments.”
 
What made you get in to action, extreme or adventure sports?
“I am a girl brought up in a family of boys always doing things that seemed extreme for my gender but I loved it.  Motorcycles, fast driving, big fast barreling hollow waves, cold water surfing, bushwacking are my interest.”
 
 
 

Easkey Britton, Ireland

http://www.easkeybritton.com/

Easkey is an internationally renowned, pioneering big-wave surfer from Ireland and has surfing in her blood. She comes from Ireland’s first surfing family and grew up in Rossnowlagh surfing with her sister Becky-Finn & her Dad Barry Britton. Barry & his brothers were some of the first pioneers of Irish surfing and it all began when Easkey’s Grandmother returned from California in the 60’s with two malibu boards for her hotel. Fortunately her boys had other ideas, rescued the board and learned to surf!
Barry and Willie both like to charge big surf & Easkey is following in their footsteps. Her Mum and Dad taught her to surf when she was 4 years old and her life has revolved around surfing ever since.
Easkey lives up to her namesake wave, the famous west coast break which can be translated to ‘fish’ in Irish. She got her first taste for travel when she went to Tahiti and became the first Irish person to surf the infamous hell-wave Teahupoo aged just 16 and hasn’t looked back since! Ireland’s 5 x National Champion she is leading the charge of the next generation of Ireland’s surfers taking on the International surf scene.
Surfing is Easkey’s active metaphor for life. Leaving the competitive circuit and pursuing big waves, adventure travel, research and artistic expression has given her the opportunity to explore more deeply the values surfing teaches and the importance of exploring more innovative and creative ways of applying and sharing those values to create positive social change.
Her passion for the marine environment led her to co-found the Wellcoast network in 2010 and complete a PhD in Environment and Society specialising in human wellbeing and coastal resilience last year. In 2013, Easkey co-founded Waves of Freedom. The initiative is founded on the belief in surfing as a powerful medium for creating positive social impact and empowerment, especially for more vulnerable groups like youth and women in areas of the world where it is not always easy to follow your passion. Easkey’s ground-breaking journey to Iran in 2013 to introduce the sport of surfing to women and local communities is the feature of a documentary film due for release in early 2014. This winter Easkey’s big-wave performance tow-surfing at Mullaghmore earned her a Global Billabong XXL nomination for performance of the year. It is Easkey’s passion for the ocean that set her on this path, “I always wanted to get under the surface of the ocean and that is what has led my life in this direction,” she says of her work and this latest project.
Easkey’s work and her unique connection to the ocean led her to being asked to talk at TEDx Dublin 2013 about the importance of living and sharing your passion and what we can achieve when we use that passion to connect with others. It is hardly surprising that most recently, Easkey has become a member of Sandbox, a global society of the world’s most extraordinary young game changers and participant at THNK’s School of Creative Leadership.
When not in the water Easkey can occasionally be spotted flying around on a trapeze