Lena Stübner, France
Lena Stubner tells us that she used to be a famous tv-presenter for Swedish Television, a job she loved. But when Lena started surfing one summer, everything changed- she soon realized she couldn’t live without it.
"I couldn’t be happy if I didn’t surf, so I had to follow my heart! I quit my dream job as a reporter for a major TV show on travel and left Sweden to start one of the first surf camps in France, The Koala Surf camp. I had never been happier! I love my life."
Lena now lives a live in her own paradise in southern France, running a small surf camp.
What's really striking about Lena in this campaign, is that she has a very different view from all the other athletes and photographers we have talked to: She actually doesn’t think that there's anything wrong with the action sports industry media, she thinks that they are doing a good job of not sexualizing women.
What made you get in to action, extreme or adventure sports?
"I used to snowboard a lot, both during summer and winter. In 1998 I was snowboarding on the glaciers in Austria, and the other snowboarders asked me if I wanted to go with them to France to surf. I went with them to Hossegor, took my first wave and it changed my life forever!
I love everything about surfing! I love the adrenaline, the excitement, being one with the ocean and the waves, the difficulty. I love paddling out in the ocean, the sheer beauty of nature, duck diving… you feel alive, free, and in love with nature and life itself."
What’s your worst/best/most intense moment related to action sports?
"The worst feeling is when you're kept under water, and it feels like you are going to drown- that is the most horrible feeling. I have broken bones and got hurt a million times and I still prefer that to being held under water.
The best feeling is when you catch a tube; I can’t even describe that feeling- it is so amazing! The most beautiful surf I ever had was when I caught the first wave together with my 2-year old daughter. We didn’t stand up of course, we were lying on the surfboard together surfing the waves, and laughing together. It was one of the most beautiful moments of my life."
What/Who is you favorite initiative, project, professional, leader, athlete or brand in the action sports sphere?
"I love watching good surfers, but I don’t have any real idols. I admire Laird Hamilton, he is a true waterman and the best surfer in the world in my eyes. "